Vincent and the chocolate factory and the endorphine. A tale of a drug addict – Murphy’s Creek to Emervale Station

This morning I sleep in a little, this bed is so comfortable and we even have a heater. My German roommate Phillip is also taking it easy. I get out of bed knowing that a nice breakfast will be served for me.
Lyne is making me eggs and bacon on toast, she also keeps offering food for me to take away. I already have a lot of chocolate from her but I accept a piece of this delicious brownie. Eventually I leave and we say goodbye. It’s amazing how we can bond in such a short time. Lyne tells me I’m welcome anytime – well that is something I will remember.

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Lyn and I posing

On the trail, I progress on a few uphills and find satisfaction in doing that. I’m back, I’m in my element, going through quiet trails through farmland and bush. I think that I was lacking a goal, a purpose, which lead to some sort of post trail depression. I’m now focusing on Cooktown. It’s only two months away and I am already fantasizing about the arrival after 5,300km on a push-bike.
I still can’t believe I spent a night at a chocolate confectioner’s place. I have a lot of pleasure eating all the chocolate along the ride.
I notice that the trees are different and the road kill is mostly dead frogs as I progress further into Queensland.

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I reach a point today where I’m happy for no reason. I wonder whether it’s the endorphins kicking in by pushing hard on those hills. Or it could simply be the satisfaction to be riding to the top of those hills without pushing the bike.
I certainly have the will to work harder when I’m in the bush. I can’t find the energy when I’m on sealed roads sharing the road with motorised vehicles.


In the afternoon the trail goes along a very busy road. There is no room for a bike, let alone a horse. I attempt to ride on the road as the bulldozer track parallel to it is taking too much effort. It’s already quite late in the afternoon. Eventually the trail goes through narrow track of overgrown Lantana. It’s only a short ride now from the next campsite.

Vire from the narrow track

Vire from the narrow track

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The narrow overgrown track

The narrow overgrown track

Looking at the time I decide to stay at next campsite. It’s way past 3pm and it will be dark soon. Once I arrive at the hut where I’m suppose to stay, I go down to the house to meet the farmers. A lovely energetic lady riding a massive truck welcomes me. She has a very cool positive attitude and is very happy for me to stay. She is so relaxed and cheerful, it makes me want to keep on talking with her.
I head back to the hut though, and have mixed feelings about it. From the outside it looks amazing, but inside things are run down and not much seems to be in working order.

The hut, a little gem that needs a little bit of maintenance

The hut, a little gem that needs a little bit of maintenance

The hut has a kitchen but no gas or electricity. There are two beds with dirty mattresses. I should probably sleep in my tent as this place must be infested by vermin. I take the risk anyway, I will sleep inside. I hope the possums will leave me alone. After getting rid of all the spider webs and their inhabitants, I manage to have a shower, it’s cold but still totally worth it.
I get on cooking under the porch. I haven’t cooked a dinner now for a couple of weeks. I’ve been fortunate enough to get invited a lot for dinners or to be staying next to cheap take away food. Slowly I feel that I’m going back into the uncivilised word, and it’s rather exciting.

Track Map

Diary Map

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